Climbing: Dissipation (Aiglun)

Aiglun is probably the best cliff of Alpes Maritimes for multi-pitch routes. We took advantage this hot November to climb Dissipation a great route in the center of the cliff of Giet

Dissipation (ED- / 7a / 300m), Aiglun (© P. Gatta)
Dissipation (ED- / 7a / 300m), Aiglun (© P. Gatta)

Check Aiglun page for access and general information.

First pitch of Dissipation, 6a+ (© P. Gatta)
First pitch of Dissipation, 6a+ (© P. Gatta)

The route starts in a small tree and the first pitch is common with Saga (writen on the cliff). This 1st pitch is probably a bit harder than 6a+.

Second pitch of Dissipation, 6a+ (© A. Gatta)
Second pitch of Dissipation, 6a+ (© A. Gatta)

The second pitch is an easy traverse, to reach an anchor comon with Artisan du 8e jour.

5th pitch of Dissipation, 6c (© A. Gatta)
5th pitch of Dissipation, 6c (© A. Gatta)

The 3rd pitch is straight up in a nice vertical wall, 6b.

5th pitch of Dissipation, 6c (© A. Gatta)
5th pitch of Dissipation, 6c (© A. Gatta)

The 4th pitch is very often extremely grissy and not so fun to climb. We combined 4th and 5th pitch in a single one as described in Camp to Camp (as opposed to Jean-Claude Raibaud topo).

6th pitch of Dissipation, 6c+ (© A. Gatta)
6th pitch of Dissipation, 6c+ (© A. Gatta)

The 5th and 6th pitches, respectively 6c and 6c+ are the nicest of the entire route, just great.

7th pitch of Dissipation, 6b (© P. Gatta)
7th pitch of Dissipation, 6b (© P. Gatta)

7th pitch: after a traverse to the left, climb straight up on a grey slab. There is a 10 meters run-out to reach the last bolt.

8th pitch of Dissipation, 6b (© P. Gatta)
8th pitch of Dissipation, 6b (© P. Gatta)

8th pitch: continue on a vertical wall, nice climb, then traverse left. The last pitch is either a poorly bolted 7a or a grassy 4+ (on the left).
From the top, reach the normal trail back to Aiglun village.

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