Tag Archives: alpinism

Alpinism: Pelago – Couloirs Nathalie and East

For this first day of 2012, I woke up at 5:30am and went to the BorĂ©on in the the Valley of VĂ©subie to climb the Couloir Nathalie (III, AD+/D, 650m) in the West face of Mont Pelago. The weather was great but it was too warm and the conditions in the Couloir were awful: very […]
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Alpinism: Grand Capelet – Couloir Diagonale

It becomes really hard to find some snow in the South of the Alps. There are almost nothing below 2400 m and a very few Couloirs and gullies are still in condition, except in some North and West faces. Today I climbed the Diagonale route (AD, 300m) in the West face of Grand Capelet (2935 […]
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Alpinism: GĂ©las – West Couloir

Sunday Anna and I went to the Madone de Fenestre to climb the West Couloir (II, AD / 3, 300m) of GĂ©las (3143 m). The snow starts above 2300 m and after several weeks of rather warm weather, the snow is pretty hard. The conditions in the West Couloir were rather good in the first […]
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Alpinism: Mont Ponset – Mont Neiglier

Today I went back to the Madone de Fenestre to climb the Couloir DĂ©laissĂ© (300m, 45-50° max) in the Southwest face of Mont Ponset (2828 m). The conditions in the Couloir were not too bad but with the current temperature the snow won’t last long. Then I climbed down the Southeast face and since it […]
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Ski alpinism: GĂ©las – Southwest ridge

After the snow fall of last week, I was excited to start a new ski touring season. The snow starts at 2200m so I decided to go at Madone de Fenestre and climb the GĂ©las (3143 m). The conditions were not so good when I started ; very strong wind and frozen snow. I skied […]
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Alpinism: Cime de Juisse – Peirastreche

Anna and I went back to the BorĂ©on to climb another Couloir in the Northwest face of Cime de Juisse (2580 m), called PeĂŻrastreche. Overall the conditions in the route were okay, there was still snow fresh snow from last week, the third pitch was the most interesting one with less snow and more ice. […]
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Alpinism: Mont Neiglier – Garriou Pippolini

The “Garriou – Pippolini” is a really nice route in the East face of Mont Neiglier (2786 m). The face is 700 meters high with a series of snow Couloir and 4 ice falls (85° maximum). Anna and I climbed the route in 3h30 which was in good conditions despite the rather warm temperatures. The […]
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Alpinism: Arete Rochefort

For the last day of photo shoot for Berghaus and the Gore-Tex Active Shell, Anna Gatta, Jon Griffith, Will Sim and I went to the Rochefort Ridge (Arete de Rochefort). We left Torino hut early to be on the ridge before the sunrise. On the way to the “Salle a Manger”, Jon took some amazing […]
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Alpinism: Tour Ronde – North face

I went back to Chamonix for the first Berghaus athlete camp (more to come…) and stayed three days with Anna Gatta and Jon Griffith for another photo shoots for Berghaus and Gore-Tex. Friday morning we took the first cable car to Torino hut and climbed the north face of Tour Ronde in the Mont Blanc […]
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TĂȘte des Portettes – Motivation EncaissĂ©e

I wanted to climb a gully called Motivation EncaissĂ©e in the North face of TĂȘte des Portettes (2823m). Bad idea, it was a sunny day, no wind but way too warm, with a freezing level at 3600m. The conditions in the gully were bad; soft melting snow and a bit of fragile ice. I climbed […]
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