Philippe Gatta
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La Turbie, Grande Face Sector

La Grande Face de la Turbie (© P. Gatta)
La Grande Face de la Turbie (© P. Gatta)

Introduction

La Grande Face, also called " Jacob ", is the sector of La Turbie with the highest number of routes graded 7 (25) and 8 (19). The routes offer various climbing styles with lots of tuffas and multiples routes over 30 meters high. This place is amazing with a direct view over the sea and Monaco.

PDF version of this topo.

La Grande Face of la Turbie (© P. Gatta)
La Grande Face of la Turbie (© P. Gatta)

Information

Location La Turbie, ~20 minutes drive from Nice, Alpes Maritimes, France.
Road access Take the A8 highway and exit at La Turbie or take the road D45 or D2564. From la Turbie drive toward Cap D’Ail on the D37 and after 200 meters, take to the left, the road of La Tête de Chien. Park at the end of the road (1.3 km from La Turbie). GPS: 7º 24’ 7.1" E / 43º 43’ 54.4" N.
Access to the cliff From the parking take a small trail going down to the crag, pass a small tunnel, continue straight up hundred meters to the top of the Tête de chien. Take a small trail onto the right going down (see the photo below). The trail progressively turns toward the East and goes to the bottom of the North Face. Continue to the right, following the bottom of the North Face until the corner of the Grande Face at the start of the Crépuscule route. GPS: 7º 24’ 12.8" E / 43º 43’ 50.9" N.
Best climbing season All year round but spring and fall are better. The crag is in shade after noon. Avoid climbing when it’s cloudy and during the Formula 1 race in Monaco.
Routes 52 routes from 6a to 8b. Require a 70 to 80 meters rope. More or less steep with a few overhangs. Routes opened by: L. Jacob, J. Cabaret, P. Pessi, P. Maurel, A. Franco...
Bolts Philippe Gatta and Pascal Clémenti rebolted 20 routes with Ring Bolt. The other routes are bolted with old 10mm hangers sometimes in bad shape.


Routes description of La Turbie, Grande Face

Topo (© p. Gatta)

Selection of routes



Photos and Videos

Philippe dans Mongolita (© A. Gatta)
Philippe dans Mongolita (© A. Gatta)

Philippe dans Pestillence, secteur Big Ben (© A. Gatta)
Philippe dans Pestillence, secteur Big Ben (© A. Gatta)

Sector of La Loubière, St Jean Cap Ferrat and Nice behind (© P. Gatta)
Sector of La Loubière, St Jean Cap Ferrat and Nice behind (© P. Gatta)

Sectors of the Fort and Big Ben (© P. Gatta)
Sectors of the Fort and Big Ben (© P. Gatta)

Access to the cragg (© P. Gatta)
Access to the cragg (© P. Gatta)


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