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Grand Capucin (3838 m)
Bonatti Route - Mont Blanc Massif, France

Top of Grand Capucin (Wikimedia)

The Grand Capucin

The Grand Capucin is a great peak located in the Mont Blanc Massif. The East and South faces offer high quality climbs.

To reach the route, start from Torino hut, Cosmiques hut or the Aiguille du Midi. Jon the Combe Maudite then climb up the Aiguillettes couloir (see the left photo below). The rimaye can be tricky.

Sun rise on Grand Capucin (© P. Gatta)

Top of Grand Capucin (Wikimedia)

Bonatti Route:

350m, ED+ (or TD aid climbing), open by Walter Bonatti and Luciano Ghigo 20 - 23 July 1951.
Guide book: Guide Vallot Mont Blanc Tome 1 and Topo du Massif du Mont Blanc Tome II de M. Piola

Rimaye of Aiguillettes couloir (© P. Gatta)

View over the rimaye and Aiguilettes couloir (© P. Gatta)

Crossing under the first big roof, 6b+ (© P. Gatta)

The Trident 3639m (© P. Gatta)

40m wall, 6c+ (© P. Gatta)

40m wall, 6c+ (© P. Gatta)

40m wall, 6c+ (© P. Gatta)

6b/c pitch after the 2nd bivy of Bonatti (© P. Gatta)

Anna Gatta in the last pitch with the Trident below (© P. Gatta)

Peuterey ridge and Grand Pilier d'Angle (photo taken from the top of Grand Capucin) (© P. Gatta)

Abseiling in Echo des Alpages (© P. Gatta)

Other peaks of Mont Blanc Massif are described in the following pages:

• 8 routes to Mont Blanc
• Central Pillar of Frêney
• Other Peaks in the Massif...