Now that Breventcable car is closed, climbing there means +1,500 meters approach but there is a great reward; being alone in the entire face.
Brevent : La Fin de Babylone (red) and Frison-Roche (yellow) (© P. Gatta)
Pascal and I climbed La Fin de Babylone (TD, 220 m) and Frison-Roche (TD-, 200 m) back to back. Both routes were in perfect conditions.
La Fin de Babylone, 2nd pitch, 6b (© P. Gatta)
We reached the start of the route through the Bellin Couloir and some fixed ropes. The Couloir was dry and the fixed rope not too bad.
La Fin de Babylone, 4th pitch, 6c (© P. Gatta)
La Fin de Babylone: 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6c, 6b, 6c, 6b, 6a. The route is 220 meters high, very well bolted (rings), with 2 rings or spits for anchors. Take 15 quickdraws.
La Fin de Babylone, 6th pitch, 6c (© P. Gatta)
From the top of Brevent we walked down to the base along the trail in 15 minutes.
View over the Fiz from the top of Brevent (© P. Gatta)
The access to the Frison-Roche route is shorter. The route is 200 meters high, very well bolted too (spits).
Frison-Roche: 2nd pitch (© P. Gatta)
Frison-Roche: 6a, 5b, 5c, 6a, 2, 5c. The 4th pitch was wet and the last one is just amazing, I wish we had 10 more like this.
Aiguille Verte and Aiguilles de Chamonix (© P. Gatta)