Alpinism: Aiguille de Bionnassay – South Ridge (Mont Blanc Massif)

Nice climb of Aiguille de Bionnassay with Morgan yesterday. The ridge was a bit icy but overall the conditions were good for the season and it is really an excellent route.

View from Aiguille de Bionnassay (© P. Gatta)
View from Aiguille de Bionnassay (© P. Gatta)

First day: we left from Bellevue cable car and reach Durier hit in about 5 hours.

Sunset on Aiguille de Bionnassay from Durier hut (© P. Gatta)
Sunset on Aiguille de Bionnassay from Durier hut (© P. Gatta)

Second day: we left Durier at 4:15am.

Rocky section (© M. Baduel)
Rocky section (© M. Baduel)

The first part is mainly a walk on screes and snow to the bollom of the Rocky section (approx. 3800m, 1h10 from Durier).

On the way to Col de Bionnassay (© P. Gatta)
On the way to Col de Bionnassay (© P. Gatta)

We made a few pitches (III) to reach the top of the wall. From there a last ice/snow slope leads to the top of Aiguille de Bionnassay (6:45am).

On the way to Col de Bionnassay (© M. Baduel)
On the way to Col de Bionnassay (© M. Baduel)

Downclimb the ridge steep and narrow to Col de Bionnassay.

Piton des Italiens and Dome du Gouter (© P. Gatta)
Piton des Italiens and Dome du Gouter (© P. Gatta)

After the Col de Bionnassay continue on the ridge (scree or ice) to the Piton des Italiens.

Piton des Italiens and Aiguille de Bionnassay (© P. Gatta)
Piton des Italiens and Aiguille de Bionnassay (© P. Gatta)

Continue to the Dome du Gouter (9am).

On the way to Dome du Gouter, mont Blanc behind (© P. Gatta)
On the way to Dome du Gouter, mont Blanc behind (© P. Gatta)

Continue to the Mont Blanc or start the descent to Gouter and Nid d’Aigle.

Aiguille de Bionnassay (© P. Gatta)
Aiguille de Bionnassay (© P. Gatta)

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