Alpinism: Aiguille de la Glière – Les Portes de la Chapelle (Aiguilles Rouges)

The Aiguille de la Glière can be quickly reached from the Index chairlift. Looking for a more sustained climb than the famous South ridge, we chose the Les Portes de la Chapelle, a TD+ route.

Aiguille de la Glière (© P. Gatta)
Aiguille de la Glière (© P. Gatta)

We did not find the route so interesting, especially due to the abseils and grassy shelve traverses.
The route is partially bolted but sometimes committed in the slabs. It is graded TD+/6b/450m and has been opened by Thierry Renault and Hubert Boissier in 2004.

Les Portes de la Chapelle: 1st pitch (© P. Gatta)
Les Portes de la Chapelle: 1st pitch (© P. Gatta)

Here is the GPS Route from Index chairlift.

Les Portes de la Chapelle: 2nd pitch (© P. Gatta)
Les Portes de la Chapelle: 2nd pitch (© P. Gatta)

Pitches: 6a+, 6b, 4, abseil, 3, 5b, 6b, 5c, traverse, 6b, 6b, 6a, 6a, 6a+, 3.

Les Portes de la Chapelle: 2nd pitch (© P. Gatta)
Les Portes de la Chapelle: 2nd pitch (© P. Gatta)

We made a mistake after the pitch #8 and climbed the 6c pitch of Chat Pelé instead. The Les Portes de la Chapelle is further down in the gully.

Chat Pelé (© P. Gatta)
Chat Pelé (© P. Gatta)

The upper part (4th step) is confusing with several routes crossing each others, we have to look at the brand of the bolts to find the way!

The upper part of Aiguille de la Glière: 6a+ pitch (© P. Gatta)
The upper part of Aiguille de la Glière: 6a+ pitch (© P. Gatta)

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