Alpinism: Aiguille de l’M – Eperon NNE (Mont Blanc Massif)

The North-Northest spur of Aiguille de l’M is a classic route opened in 1945. It is a fun climb on a good granite and the Aiguille de l’M offers amazing views over Chamonix Aiguilles.

View from Aiguille de l'M (© P. Gatta)
View from Aiguille de l’M (© P. Gatta)

This route is graded D-/5b/180m, 6 pitches.

At the start of the fiest pitch, Aiguille de l'M (© A. Gatta)
At the start of the fiest pitch, Aiguille de l’M (© A. Gatta)

Approach: start in Montenvers, follow the trail going to Plan de l’Aiguille (not signal Forbes). At the point 2098m (E6.90517, N45.92072) follow a trail going up toward Aiguille de l’M. At 2278m, take the left trail going toward the base of the North-Northest spur, around 1h45 from Montenvers.

In the famous corner, Aiguille de l'M (© A. Gatta)
In the famous corner, Aiguille de l’M (© A. Gatta)

Pitch #1: IV+, technical cracks. A 0.2 camalot helps protecting the start.
Pitch #2: V, chimney and short wall. It is better to skip the intermediate anchor and go straight to the shelf.
Pitch #3, IV+, physical corner with some good holds but slippery.
Pitch #4, IV+, reach the top of the first corner and continue on a second one, slabby and technical.
Pitch #5, V, traverse left on shelf and climb straight up and then left. Very nice pitch.
Pitch #6, III, go thru the left “boites aux lettres” and continue on easy but loose rocks to the top (50m)

In the famous corner, Aiguille de l'M (© P. Gatta)
In the famous corner, Aiguille de l’M (© P. Gatta)

Top of Aiguille de l'M (© A. Gatta)
Top of Aiguille de l’M (© A. Gatta)

Descent: after two abseils reach the Couloir de la Bûche and follow the normal route (ladders at the bottom).

Second abseil, Aiguille de l'M (© P. Gatta)
Second abseil, Aiguille de l’M (© P. Gatta)

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