Alpinism: Aiguille du Midi – Kohlmann route (Mont Blanc Massif)

The Kohlmann route is probably less known than the Rebuffat but as nice in my opinion. It is a short route, easy to find, on good granite with a climb mostly on corners.

Aiguille du Midi and the obvious corner of the Kohlmann (© P. Gatta)
Aiguille du Midi and the obvious corner of the Kohlmann (© P. Gatta)

This route is graded TD+/6c/200m and has been opened by P. Kohlmann, B. Mevel, G. Dassonville and M. Bréban.

Morgan and Alexis at the start of the Kohlmann (© P. Gatta)
Morgan and Alexis at the start of the Kohlmann (© P. Gatta)

The fastest approach is to climb down the Midi ridge rather than abseiling. Start on the right crack in fron of Morgan in the photo above. The first anchor is above the big bloc around 30m higher. Then the route follows the corners more or less straight up.

Kohlmann: pitch #1 (© P. Gatta)
Kohlmann: pitch #1 (© P. Gatta)

The route is 10 pitchs long: 5b, 5b, 5b, 5b+, 6c, 4c (can be joined with the previous one), 6b, 6a+, 5b, 6b.

Kohlmann: pitch #3 (© P. Gatta)
Kohlmann: pitch #3 (© P. Gatta)

Kohlmann: pitch #5, crux of the 6c (© M. Baduel)
Kohlmann: pitch #5, crux of the 6c (© M. Baduel)

Kohlmann: beginning of pitch #8, 6a+ (© M. Baduel)
Kohlmann: beginning of pitch #8, 6a+ (© M. Baduel)

Kohlmann: beginning of pitch #8 from above (© P. Gatta)
Kohlmann: beginning of pitch #8 from above (© P. Gatta)

Climbers around Aiguille du Midi (© P. Gatta)
Climbers around Aiguille du Midi (© P. Gatta)

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