Categories
- Alpinism (90)
- Climbing (47)
- Expedition (59)
- Ski touring (26)
- Snowshoes (14)
- Trail (128)
- Uncategorized (1)
- Video (22)
Archives
- July 2019 (1)
- September 2018 (3)
- August 2018 (4)
- July 2018 (2)
- August 2017 (5)
- July 2017 (8)
- June 2017 (1)
- May 2017 (4)
- April 2017 (3)
- March 2017 (1)
- February 2017 (2)
- October 2016 (1)
- September 2016 (1)
- August 2016 (4)
- July 2016 (2)
- May 2016 (2)
- April 2016 (6)
- March 2016 (2)
- January 2016 (1)
- November 2015 (4)
- October 2015 (3)
- September 2015 (5)
- August 2015 (3)
- June 2015 (2)
- May 2015 (5)
- April 2015 (6)
- February 2015 (1)
- January 2015 (4)
- December 2014 (1)
- November 2014 (2)
- October 2014 (3)
- September 2014 (5)
- August 2014 (3)
- July 2014 (4)
- June 2014 (7)
- May 2014 (2)
- March 2014 (7)
- February 2014 (1)
- January 2014 (2)
- December 2013 (1)
- November 2013 (1)
- September 2013 (4)
- July 2013 (3)
- May 2013 (1)
- April 2013 (3)
- March 2013 (1)
- February 2013 (2)
- January 2013 (3)
- December 2012 (2)
- November 2012 (2)
- October 2012 (1)
- September 2012 (1)
- August 2012 (4)
- July 2012 (4)
- June 2012 (10)
- May 2012 (2)
- April 2012 (3)
- March 2012 (3)
- February 2012 (4)
- January 2012 (6)
- December 2011 (5)
- November 2011 (4)
- October 2011 (10)
- September 2011 (4)
- August 2011 (2)
- July 2011 (3)
- June 2011 (3)
- May 2011 (22)
- April 2011 (8)
- March 2011 (3)
- February 2011 (8)
- January 2011 (9)
- December 2010 (7)
- November 2010 (6)
- October 2010 (3)
- September 2010 (5)
- August 2010 (1)
- July 2010 (1)
- May 2010 (2)
- January 2010 (1)
- October 2009 (1)
- September 2009 (2)
- July 2009 (1)
-
RSS Links
Tags
4 deserts Aiguille du Midi Aiguilles Rouges alpinism alps argentiere boreon china Climbing deverse Egypt Expedition ferion GHT glace gobi march gordolasque gorges du loup gr gr 5 Grands-Montets great himalaya trail himalaya ice climbing kangchenjunga Khan-Tengri Les houches mercantour mont blanc Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Blanc Massif nepal peillon race riviera running sahara race ski snowshoes tinee topo trail Trail vesubie video
Alpinism: Cime de Juisse – Peirastreche
Anna and I went back to the Boréon to climb another Couloir in the Northwest face of Cime de Juisse (2580 m), called Peïrastreche. Overall the conditions in the route were okay, there was still snow fresh snow from last week, the third pitch was the most interesting one with less snow and more ice. There are many trees in the upper part of the route which are a bit annoying. We continued 2 pitches (IV) above the end of the Couloir along the ridge toward the true summit of Cime de Juisse but it was already late so we finally rapped down the route, thanks to the slings and quick links in place.
The Coulor Peïrastreche is graded: D+ / 3 / 75° max. 320 m. The ridge above the Couloir is AD+ / IV / 200m.
Coulor Peïrastreche in Cime de Juisse (© P. Gatta)
This Couloir has be opened by Olivier Vitale and Cyrille Catin in January this year and has been climbed many times since then. Sunday we met our friend Ben Guigonet (from Guides06) with 3 clients and another party climbed it the day before.
At the bottom of the Couloir, Cougourde behind (© A. Gatta)
Access: park in Boréon and follow the snowshoes trail toward the Refuge de la Cougourde until the Pont Peïrastreche (bridge, 1838 m) thru the signposts 381, 419, 420, 421, 422, 423. The Couloir is visible from the bridge, climb directly to the bottom. Around 4km from the parking.
Anna in the first pitch of the Couloir Peïrastreche (© P. Gatta)
The route:
#1: slope at 40°-50° with a short section at 60°, 60m (anchor in a tree on the right).
#2: slope at 50°, 50m (anchor on a rock at the bottom of the steep section).
#3: sections at 65° then 75°, 40m (anchor in a tree).
#4: sections at 75° then 60°, 40m (anchor in a tree).
#5: sections at 60°, many trees, 40m (anchor on a big dead tree, see photo below).
Anna abseiling from the ridge to the top of the Couloir. Ben and his clients (© P. Gatta)
Descent: rapp down the route or climb the ridge above to the top of Cime de Juisse (IV, long).
Anna abseiling from the 3rd pitch (© P. Gatta)
Cime de Juisse, the route ends on the rocky top on the left (© P. Gatta)