Alpinism: Cime de Juisse – Peirastreche

Anna and I went back to the Boréon to climb another Couloir in the Northwest face of Cime de Juisse (2580 m), called Peïrastreche. Overall the conditions in the route were okay, there was still snow fresh snow from last week, the third pitch was the most interesting one with less snow and more ice. There are many trees in the upper part of the route which are a bit annoying. We continued 2 pitches (IV) above the end of the Couloir along the ridge toward the true summit of Cime de Juisse but it was already late so we finally rapped down the route, thanks to the slings and quick links in place.

The Coulor Peïrastreche is graded: D+ / 3 / 75° max. 320 m. The ridge above the Couloir is AD+ / IV / 200m.

Coulor Peïrastreche in Cime de Juisse (© P. Gatta)

This Couloir has be opened by Olivier Vitale and Cyrille Catin in January this year and has been climbed many times since then. Sunday we met our friend Ben Guigonet (from Guides06) with 3 clients and another party climbed it the day before.

At the bottom of the Couloir, Cougourde behind (© A. Gatta)

Access: park in Boréon and follow the snowshoes trail toward the Refuge de la Cougourde until the Pont Peïrastreche (bridge, 1838 m) thru the signposts 381, 419, 420, 421, 422, 423. The Couloir is visible from the bridge, climb directly to the bottom. Around 4km from the parking.

Anna in the first pitch of the Couloir Peïrastreche (© P. Gatta)

The route:
#1: slope at 40°-50° with a short section at 60°, 60m (anchor in a tree on the right).
#2: slope at 50°, 50m (anchor on a rock at the bottom of the steep section).
#3: sections at 65° then 75°, 40m (anchor in a tree).
#4: sections at 75° then 60°, 40m (anchor in a tree).
#5: sections at 60°, many trees, 40m (anchor on a big dead tree, see photo below).

Anna abseiling from the ridge to the top of the Couloir. Ben and his clients (© P. Gatta)

Descent: rapp down the route or climb the ridge above to the top of Cime de Juisse (IV, long).

Anna abseiling from the 3rd pitch (© P. Gatta)

Cime de Juisse, the route ends on the rocky top on the left (© P. Gatta)