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Alpinism: Mont Blanc du Tacul – Gervasutti Pillar (Mont Blanc Massif)
The Gervasutti Pillar is a fantastic route on the East face of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m). Open in 1951 by Formelli and Mauro, this 900m/6a route is a classic with a great variety of climbing styles and promises a long day of action in high altitude.
Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)
Video of Mont Blanc du Tacul – Gervasutti Pillar (© Morgan Baduel)
Morgan and I took the first lift at Aiguille du Midi and started climbing just before 9am. Fortunately the relatively cold temperatures limited the rock falls in the first exposed pitches.
Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)
The climb on the first half of the Pillar is amazing on a great red granite.
Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)
On the higher part of the pillar the route goes right into the North Face.
Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)
Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)
Unfortunately we joined the North face too early, fooled by old slings and anchors.
Petit and Grand Capucin (© P. Gatta)
Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)
We went on for about 3 pitches in very lose rock until we finally understood our mistake.
Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)
Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)
Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)
A rock hit one of our ropes that we had to cut but fortunately we lost only a few meters.
Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)
Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)
Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)
We abseiled down to get back, where we were 3 hours before.
Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)
We kept on climbing without further mistakes but 900m is definitively quite long and we reached the summit in the dark.
Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)
Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)
We eventually reached the Cosmic hut around midnight quite tired and happy.
Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)