Alpinism: Pointes Lachenal – A l’oree du bois

After the recent snow falls on Mont Blanc Massif, most routes were in winter conditions except the Pointes Lachenal. Pascal and I went back to climb another route there ; A l’oree du bois. There are some nice pitches but the route is a bit confusing as it crosses 3 other routes. Anyway it was a nice day and a fun climb on the nice granite of Pointes Lachenal.

Early start on Aiguille du Midi ridge (© P. Gatta)
Early start on Aiguille du Midi ridge (© P. Gatta)

We took the first cable car from Aiguille du Midi and reached the bottom of Pointes Lachenal in 30 minutes.

On the way to Pointes Lachenal (© P. Gatta)
On the way to Pointes Lachenal (© P. Gatta)

The route is 250m high and graded TD+, 6b/A0. There are bolts on slabs and for the anchors, the cracks are relatively easy to protect.

The start (© P. Gatta)
The start (© P. Gatta)

On the photo above, we can see the start of Le bon filon in the shade and the start of A l’oree du bois and Harold et Maud just 2 meters left.

On the 1st pitch (© P. Gatta)
On the 1st pitch (© P. Gatta)

The first pitch is common with Harold et Maud, then we took left above the 1st anchor (2 spits).

Very nice 4th pitch (© P. Gatta)
Very nice 4th pitch (© P. Gatta)

Grades: 6b, 6a, 6b, 6a, 6b/A0, 6b, 6a, 5, 4.

Pascal in the 6b/A0 pitch (© P. Gatta)
Pascal in the 6b/A0 pitch (© P. Gatta)

With a 60 meters rope, it is possible to link the 6th and 7th pitches which are common with Harold et Maud.

In the 6th pitch, 6b (© P. Gatta)
In the 6th pitch, 6b (© P. Gatta)

We climbed the route in 4h (with the pack) and went back to Aiguille du Midi in 35 minutes.

This entry was posted in Alpinism and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink. Both comments and trackbacks are currently closed.

    Instagram     YouTube     RSS