Alpinism: Roi de Siam – Petit Capoussin (Mont Blanc Massif)

Roi de Siam (3,693m) is a relatively small peak surrounded by famous ones like Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc du Tacul… Nevertheless, it offers great routes on a perfect granit such as Petit Capoussin (ED-, 300m, 6b+) that we climbed yesterday with Pascal, Marie No and Matthias. Great conditions, dry route and sunny day.

Roi de Siam, Petit Capoussin, 2nd pitch (© P. Gatta)
Roi de Siam, Petit Capoussin, 2nd pitch (© P. Gatta)

We reached the base of Roi de Siam in 1h15 from Aiguille du Midi because it was more convinient for us but it is shorter to start from Helbronner.

Roi de Siam - Petit Capoussin (© P. Gatta)
Roi de Siam – Petit Capoussin (© P. Gatta)

The Petit Capoussin route starts below a roof, on the left wall and not on the right crack as mentioned in Piolat topo.

Roi de Siam, Petit Capoussin, 4th pitch (© P. Gatta)
Roi de Siam, Petit Capoussin, 4th pitch (© P. Gatta)

The routes is 8 pitches long:
– 6a+: sustained climb along some good cracks.
– 6b: beautiful slab and small overhang.
– 6a+: first bolt on the right (weird) and then back in the left crack.
– 6a+: physical roof, then easier crack.
– 4: easy and fun slab.
– 6a: technical wall.
– 5+: nice slab.
– 6b+: fantastic crack then a more complex climb with some loose rock.

Roi de Siam, Petit Capoussin, 5th pitch (© P. Gatta)
Roi de Siam, Petit Capoussin, 5th pitch (© P. Gatta)

Descent: rappel down in the route.

Roi de Siam, Petit Capoussin, last pitch (© P. Gatta)
Roi de Siam, Petit Capoussin, last pitch in the center (© P. Gatta)

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