Climbing: Barberine – Magicien d’Oz (Aiguilles Rouges)

We just climbed a fun and easy route in Barberine: Magicien d’Oz. It is a seven pitches route, all nice and on good rock, thanks to Michel Piola!

Barberine - Magicien d’Oz (© P. Gatta)
Barberine – Magicien d’Oz (© P. Gatta)

Park in the parking before the small village of Barberine; cross the village at foot on continue to the base of the cliff. Leave the slabs and walk on the right in the forest and shortly after on the scree, go back in the forest and go right before the top of the slabs to reach the start of the route equipped with rings (20 minutes).

The first pitch is a 6a dihedral (see photo above).

Barberine - Magicien d’Oz: 2nd pitch (© P. Gatta)
Barberine – Magicien d’Oz: 2nd pitch (© P. Gatta)

The second pitch is a 5c slab. Continue at the end of the slab for 10m of grass to reach the start of the following pitch.

Barberine - Magicien d’Oz: 3rd pitch (© P. Gatta)
Barberine – Magicien d’Oz: 3rd pitch (© P. Gatta)

The 3rd pitch is a technical 6a+, the anchor is close to a pine tree.

Barberine - Magicien d’Oz: 3rd pitch (© P. Gatta)
Barberine – Magicien d’Oz: 3rd pitch (© P. Gatta)

Pitch 4: 6b technical wall which also leads to another tree.
Pitch 5: 6a+ physical in crack and dihedral, fun climb.

Barberine - Magicien d’Oz (© P. Gatta)
Barberine – Magicien d’Oz (© P. Gatta)

Pitch 6: 6a, easy traverse on good holds followed by a technical climb.
Pitch 7: 6a+.

Barberine - Magicien d’Oz (© P. Gatta)
Barberine – Magicien d’Oz (© P. Gatta)

From the top, the best is to walk down through La Gorge and then to Le Châtelard.

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