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EXPEDITIONS: 7 Summits Challenge | Mount Everest | Kangchenjunga | Makalu | K2 | Gasherbrum, Broad Peak | Cho Oyu | Ama Dablam | Khan Tengri | Mount Vinson | Cerro Aconcagua | Carstensz Pyramid | Denali / McKinley | Chopicalqui, Ishinca, Urus | Parinacota, Huayna Potosi | Mount Kilimanjaro | Mount Elbrus
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Traversée des Aiguilles de Chamonix
After almost a week of bad weather, high pressures are back and Alex and I could finally go back in Mont Blanc Massif for a fantastic climb of the Aiguilles de Chamonix. Around 3.5 km of ridge, 7 peaks crossed and 20 hours of climb from Aiguille du Midi to Plan de l’Aiguille.
After col du Caiman (© A. Chabot)
We took the first cable car Aiguille du Midi and started the traverse at 7am.
Aiguille du Midi (left) to Aiguille de Blaitière (right) (© P. Gatta)
Between Aiguille du Midi and Aiguille du Plan (© A. Chabot)
We reached the Aiguille du Plan in 2h20, thanks to the great snow conditions.
Aiguille du Crocodile seen from Aiguille du Plan (© P. Gatta)
Short break at Breche du Caiman (© A. Chabot)
Aiguille du Plan to Breche du Caiman: 2h40.
View over Crocodile from Breche du Caiman (© P. Gatta)
View over Caiman from Breche du Caiman, the route is straight up (© P. Gatta)

Breche du Caiman to Caiman: 1h45.Climbing Aiguille du Caiman (© A. Chabot)
Last abseil to the col du Caiman (© P. Gatta)
Abseiling Aiguille du Caiman is tricky. According to Philippe Batoux topo, the second abseil from the top is 35m high on Envers side. It might be a bit longer than that and goes to the right. There is one peg (piton) to climb a 2m crack (5) to reach a short ledge. The next anchor is at the end of this ledge, on Chamonix side and cannot been seen from the ledge.
Looking back over Chevalier and Caiman (© P. Gatta)
Caiman to Col of Caiman: 2h.
Traversing Lepiney (© P. Gatta)
Bivouac at Col du Fou (© P. Gatta)
Col of Caiman to Col of Fou: 2h40.
Full moon over Grandes Jorasses and Rochefort ridge from Col du Fou (© P. Gatta)
Southwest route of Fou seen from the bivouac (© P. Gatta)
First pitch of Aiguille du Fou (© A. Chabot)
Looking back at Traversée des Aiguilles de Chamonix (© P. Gatta)
Col du Fou to Aiguille du Fou: 2h30.
A chimney on the way down from Aiguille du Fou (© P. Gatta)
Abseiling from Aiguille du Fou (© P. Gatta)
The abseils to reach the shelves below Les Ciseaux are not easy to find and there was lot of soft snow. The rappels traverse to the North.

Aiguille du Fou to Col des Nantillons: 2h50.Climbing Les Ciseaux (© A. Chabot)
Abseiling Spencer Couloir (© P. Gatta)
Aiguille de Grépon seen from Col des Nantillons (© P. Gatta)Col des Nantillons to Plan de l’Aiguille: 3h30.
Aiguilles de Chamonix in the clouds (© P. Gatta)