Alpinism: Aiguille Verte – Couloir Couturier (Mont Blanc Massif)

The Aiguille Verte is an iconic mountain of the Mont Blanc Massif and it is always a pleasure to climb it. The Couloir Couturier is a classic and this year it has been in good conditions for a while, so Morgan and I decided to climb it up and down as training.

The last serac below the top of Aiguille Verte (© P. Gatta)
The last serac below the top of Aiguille Verte (© P. Gatta)

In winter the approach with skis is quick, around 30 minutes from the Grands Montets: ski down around 150m on Rognon Glacier and traverse below the Petite Verte and Cordier Couloir, paying attention to the big seracs above.

Approach from Grands Montets at skis (© P. Gatta)
Approach from Grands Montets at skis (© P. Gatta)

Go slightly up to reach the bergschrund. This year we passed it on the right side.

Passing the bergschrund of Couturier (© M. Baduel)
Passing the bergschrund of Couturier (© M. Baduel)

Climb the Couturier Couloir, 850m at 52° average over and 55° maximum. There was some black ice sections in the first third.

Aiguille Verte: Couloir Couturier (© M. Baduel)
Aiguille Verte: Couloir Couturier (© M. Baduel)

At the end of the Couloir, go to the right side and the climb the summit ice cap to the top (some crevasses and seracs).

The final climb of Couturier Couloir (© M. Baduel)
The final climb of Couturier Couloir (© M. Baduel)

We climbed down the Couturier Couloir, another option is to climb down the Whymper Couloir in the South face.

Mont Blanc Massif from the top of Aiguille Verte (© P. Gatta)
Mont Blanc Massif from the top of Aiguille Verte (© P. Gatta)

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